I was thinking hard what to do for this year’s CYC’s (Chinese New Year) holidays? Each year, I spent the days in my hometown, Segamat. This time around, for a change, I nevertheless couldn’t resist my younger sister’s request, asking me to take a trip, down to her place, Malacca. ``Good idea’’, I told myself. ``Why not, just enjoy the time with her and her family’’, my heart further reaffirmed in assurance.
Mr. Mogan and his family came down all the way from Klang and stayed overnight in Kulai, picking up his mother the following day en-route to Klang and a stopover at Malacca; had a pre-arranged lunch at sister’s place before continuing their journey after visiting Sidhi Vinayagar temple in Cheng and to a century old Murugan temple, ``Sannasi Koyil ’’, near Batu Berendam.
Left Kulai at 10.30am. Highway (PLUS) started to swell with motorcars, buses, lorries, vans with holiday makers and those who are rushing back to their hometowns. Beeline queue begins a kilometer just after collecting highway toll ticket. Traffic flow was heavy till Air Hitam. Fearing a massive jam, Mogan stopped at Macap to suggest we take an old road, exit Air Hitam and follow Batu Pahat trunk road towards Malacca, but at a longer journey time. Our fears were allayed; on a second thought, a quick about turn, decided to take a small calculated risk, use highway (PLUS) again. It turned out to be a correct decision after all! The road was back to normal, smooth flow. We could accelerate up to maximum speed limit of 110 km.
We reached Ayer Keroh toll at 1.30pm, and proceeded to sister’s place, at Pantai Klebang. I made a bad decision to drive through city center instead of using the inner village road, less used by motorists. We were caught in a jam that slowed us for almost an hour. Upon reaching sister’s home, she feasted us with a sumptuous vegetarian lunch. She also insist us visit couple of temples.
First, we visited Siddhi Vinayagar temple in Cheng industrial estate. It was a beautifully built Ganesha temple. However, to our dismay, when we reached, the temple is closed. We viewed from afar. After that, we drove down to Batu Berendam. Famed Sannasi’s Thendayuthapaani (Murugan temple), more than a century old temple situated in a Malay village (mid 1800). Temple is one of the famous old temples in Malaysia. Full of mystical events and rich historical past, it draws thousands of visitors, devotees and curious public members on each festival day.
Temple was built and is devoted to a mystical ``sanyasi’’ who was a cowherd, an ardent devotee of Lord Siva and lead a detached life in solitude. The older Malay residents says his rituals includes of bathing a ``Syambulingam’’ each day with water from a nearby stream. Malay village folks often helped him in carrying buckets of water for bathing the ``Lingam’’. Their admiration and respect to this ``Sanyasi’’ were deeply embedded in them even till today. Devotees from Malaysia and Singapore throng in, during festival and holiday sessions. They pay their respect to ``Samadhi’’ of Sannasi, located just at the corner of the temple compound. ``Makeshift tent shade is made covering his burial ground. `Sivalingam’ graha was erected for worshipers to offer prayers. ``Arasamaram’’ tree branches beside this Samadhi were full with orange, yellow and red cloths tied around by devotees making or fulfilling their vows/prayers.
Orally compiled story, handed down through couple of generation cycle, about this mystical man, as narrated by village folks, said ``Sannasi’’ had requested them to bury him alive after he stopped breathing while in meditating position - ``Jivasamadhi’’. Somehow rather, this temple, now became Lord Murugan temple, but in the sanctum sanctorum of this temple, presence of ``Sivalingam’’ is noted apart from Deity of Lord Murugan. ``Malacca Chettiar’’ community/trustee is taking care in managing Sannasi temple. In the month of February each year, a grand festival will be held, kind of a ``mini Thaipusam’’ where devotees will fulfill their vows by carrying ``kavadi’’, ``paal kudam’’, shaving heads and finale of the religious event is chariot procession of Lord Muruga. Estimated more than 30,000 devotees attend to this temple on each festival session.
Just before bade goodbye to Mr. Mogan and his family, we managed to stop and paid a short visit to Mariaman temple, famously known for stories of ``mystical horses’’ that were said act as guardian of the temple and village. The temple is situated in a rubber plantation near Alor Gajah. This temple is also known as ``Kuthirai Koyil’’ – ``temple of horses’’ by locals Hindus.
No night outing, except drove sister and her kids to Pantai medical center. Her son, five years old Rajadhasan, had viral fever for the past one month and is on medication. She has to bring him there for intravenous administered antibiotic dose, twice each day. We had dinner at a relative’s house in Bukit Beruang. On the following day, Friday, 8th February, followed her visiting her Chinese friends who had ``open house’’. I like this one particular Chinese family friend of her. They are Chinese Baba Malacca. We were treated in a particular Malay traditional reception. The elder members of this family speak fluent Malay and incorporated many Malay culture and traditional practices into their daily life activities.
I was engrossed in conversation with the elderly Nyonya & Baba Malacca couples while the rest were gaily munching away tasty `home fried ground nuts, cashew nuts and other home made cookies’. Although the prayer alter is typically Chinese, but others were mostly Malay floured decoration heritage items. ``Malaysia Bahagia’’ concept of difference races living under one roof is very much vividly portrayed in this house. I saw kids, product of inter-race marriages rooming, playing and running about in the house. Elderly couples grandchildren consist of Malay-Muslim, Chinese- Christian, Indian-Hindus and this family themselves are Buddhist-Taoist – all under one roof!!! Truly a Malaysian family.
Late in the evening, we made a quick city round drive tour, walkabout into ``Little India’’ street and dinner at Chinese vegetarian restaurant at Bandar Hilir, Malacca. Bandar Hilir was jammed and packed with holiday makers, foreign travelers and tourists. Parked my car near Bukit China, where 15th century Princess Hang Li Po’s well is situated. Every corner of Malacca town is packed with people from all walks of life. Electricity powered Chinese lanterns brightens and engulfs most of the city center roads/streets in rays of red lights. Old Dutch fort had streams of visitors climbing up and viewed the city from top of the hill. At the riverside (Sungai Melaka), replica of few centuries old Dutch merchant ship, Flor De Lama too had streams of visitors.
Latest attraction is cruise along Malacca River on a cruise boat (similar to that in Venice). Priced at RM$10, one our round trip is well worth for the money paid. The terminal point where people queue up to buy tickets was really terribly flocked! I decided not get down from my car, instead, just drive through the inner one way roads, gazed through car’s window Malacca museum, Portuguese settlement village, St Paul church, St Paul’s Institution, Poiya Pillayar temple (built in 1700 century), Chinese temple, and old masjid (Indian Muslim), Malacca China Town, Hang Jebat’s burial ground ( a Malay warrior in the era of Hang Tuah and his famous friends, Hang Lekiu, Hang Kasturi, Hang Lekir ), Jalan Parameswara (an Hindu King who settled in ancient Malacca and married to local a Malay princess). He then became Sultan Muzaffar Shah. That’s all for the day’s program! Retired to sleep at 2.00am.
Saturday, 9th February – relatively much more subdued. Drove to Tangkak (famous for textile merchants) and picked up mother who took public transport from Segamat. While we had used PLUS highway to Tangkak town, we decided to drive by old trunk road, Jasin. Serene landscape with many local villages, fruit orchards, laid back modern village folks. Mountain sceneries at the back are a contrast from those in Johor Bahru or Kulai which are filled with high rise concrete buildings! Entered through south border of Malacca, we stopped at Kampung Duyong where Hang Tuah was said were born and became a legendary local warrior in Malay annals in ancient kingdom of Malacca Sultanate.
The ``well’’ (perigi Hang Tuah) of Kampung Duyong is antiquated and gazeted as a one of Malaysia heritage sites and managed by Ministry of Arts, Heritage and Culture. Hang Tuah was believed to have dug himself a well in this village and known to local folks to have therapeutic medicinal ( mystical) effects to those who seen here washed their legs, face or bottled to bring back home as other beneficial remedies. Village folks are basically proud to have this mystical well and said will not go dry, even in the most severe draught session!
At night, had a down-town, Bandar Hilir drive-through and went to a beautiful Amman Temple, near Alur Gajah. Situated right on top of a hill, it was a magnificent temple. Built recently, the interior wall decorations and murals are superb and fantastic! I wonder, the beauty of carvings done by carvers / ``silpis’’ or knows as stone carvers who had their hands chiseled their ``subjects – angelic’’ exquisite and attractively. Incredible crafmenship!
A well spent holiday. More places need to be covered for my next holiday trip. Journey back home to Kulai was a `ride to hell’ episode. Massive jam from Pagoh, right all the way to Kulai for a staggering 5 hours!! An exhaustive drive at snail pace. Reached home at about 5pm – Home sweet home…..
